Multiply lilies and other bulbs with scaling, dividing, and cutting
Plants multiply by making seed, spreading their
roots, adding rhizomes and multiplying bulbs. One way to tell if a lily or
daffodil needs to be divided is that it has fewer flowers or seems to be
healthy only around the outer edges of a clump.
Lilies are very good at making copies of themselves.
Toward the end of the flowering season there are tiny lily seeds all along the
stem and when the bulbs are dug up, there will be more bulbs under-ground than
were originally planted. In addition, between the bulb in the ground and the
surface of the soil, stem bulblets will be growing along the underground stem.
Now that lilies have bloomed and faded, we can dig
up the bulbs and divide them to share or to re-plant. There are a few common
methods you can use.
After digging, remove the roots of the bulb, being
careful to not cut into the basal plate. The basal plate looks like the bottom
of an onion and bulb scales are like layers of an onion.
Any bulbils and bulblets in the soil or attached to
the plant stem can be planted directly into the ground or into planting trays
and pots. They will probably take a year or two to build up enough size to
bloom. They can also be collected and put into baggies in the refrigerator for
a month before planting into pots and then kept protected over the winter.
Bulbs, bulbils, bulblets, and scales can be treated for
fungus and disease before they are rooted or planted. Methods include spraying or
dusting with fungicide, dusting with powdered sulphur or dipping in a one
percent Clorox solution.
Lily scales can be separated from the main bulb.
This method, called scaling or twin scaling, is very easy and popular among
lily enthusiasts.
You can just dig down to the parent bulb, remove a
pair of outer scales and put them into a baggie with damp Vermiculite until you
see small bulblets have formed (2 to 12 weeks). Open the bag to keep the
moisture at a minimum and the bulblets will continue to grow. Then plant them
into trays or pots of soil.
Scales can also be pushed into a tray of half sand
and half peat moss or seed starting mix, with the top sticking out. Moisten the
tray bed and put it into a plastic bag or use a clear lid if the tray came with
one. Keep them at 65 degrees until the bulblets form and then plant. Keep these
tender plants inside until spring.
When digging daffodils that have stopped blooming,
gardeners find offsets or small bulbs attached to the sides of the original
central bulb. Offsets have a pointed growing tip and a root end and look like a
miniature of the parent bulb.
To divide daffodil bulbs that do not bloom as much
as they once did, dig them out of the ground and separate them. Separate each
from the basal plate. They can be replanted as is or the large bulbs can be
divided further.
To make more daffodil bulbs out of the ones you
have, remove the outer skin and any stem from the top. Dunk the bulbs in Clorox
solution or wipe with Clorox wipes. Then, with sharp knife that has been sterilized
in bleach, cut the bulb into 4 quarters and dust with fungicide.
Put the pieces into slightly damp sand or perlite.
Within a few months they will develop little bulbs. Plant the bulbs in pots or
flats and then outside in spring. The same method works with hyacinth bulbs.
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