18 December 2014

Holiday Wreaths Add a Welcoming Touch

This is the time of year when homes, stores and entire city blocks are decorated with snowflakes, stars, bells, garlands, poinsettia plants, evergreen trees, wreaths, and blooming Christmas cactus.

Holiday wreaths, garlands and decorative boughs can be made of ordinary materials such as felt cutouts, ribbon and tree branches or precious items such as the diamond and ruby studded Christmas wreath that sold for over $4 million last Christmas.

The circular shape of the Christmas wreath has the same significance as wedding bands, with the circle representing eternity or the unending circle of life. Evergreen tree branches, most often used to make wreaths symbolize growth and everlasting life.

Jerry Clouse, owner of Twin Pines evergreen farm in Muskogee said, “We grow the French Scotch Pine and the Belgian Scotch Pine trees. They are called Legend Trees because the central stem signifies God and the second stalk is Jesus. Then the branches coming up are the five branches of heaven.”

Clouse who has been growing trees on his land on West Smith Ferry RD for seven years said the types of trees he grows are easier for allergy and asthma sufferers to have in the house.

“Every tree we have is available for $35 and an armful or two of branches to make wreaths is $5,” said Clouse.

Scotch, Belgian or Scots pine, Pinus Sylvestris, has a wide native range from the Iberian peninsula and Scotland to the Far East and from Scandinavia to Asia minor.

A wreath at the front door is a symbol of welcome, a wreath with 5 candles is a symbol of the weeks of Advent that lead to Christmas. One Advent wreath candle is lit every week and the central one is lit on Christmas.

A simple, traditional, wreath can be made of evergreen twigs attached into a circular shape held together with wire or ties. Pinecones and a bow can be attached or glued on to complete the traditional look.

Other ideas include making a wreath from little foil covered boxes usually used to decorate a tree. Hot glue the tiny packages to a wire or grapevine form and finish the wreath with a red, green or gold bow.

Wreath forms can be made from a wire coat hanger, with the curved part that usually goes over the clothes pole being used as the wreath hanger. Glue or attach Christmas ornaments, painted pine cones and winter berries to the wire, and make a bow large enough to cover the hanger.

To use fresh boughs, a double wire or circular foam form works to hold the weight. Attach a small cluster of boughs together with florist wire then attach the cluster to the frame. Wire decorations such as Christmas tree balls, bells, cinnamon sticks, berries, etc. between each cluster of pine twigs as you work your way around the form. Add a bow and hang it where you can enjoy the scent.

Wreath bows are often made with wire-edged holiday ribbon so they are easier to shape for the top or the bottom of the wreath but there are many creative options.
Some ideas for greenery from around the garden or yard, consider Barberry, Boxwood, Fern, Hemlock, Holly, Juniper Magnolia, Laurel, Oregon Grape Holly, Rhododendron, Spruce, Cedar, and Pine.

Non-traditional but equally pretty choices include Ferns, Viburnum, Heavenly Bamboo, Euonymous ivy, etc. Prune the branches evenly and take only a little from each side. If children or pets will have access to the wreath, know what you are cutting and make sure it is non-toxic (see http://hort.li/1D0G).

After the greenery, berries and pine cones are cleaned and dry, they can be lightly sprayed with glycerin-water solution or hairspray to preserve them and reduce air pollution (see http://hort.li/1D0F.

Twin Pines fresh-cut Christmas trees and boughs for wreaths
Jerry Clouse, owner
1201 West Smith Ferry RD, near highway 64

14 December 2014

Columbine - Aquilegia - Perennial Seeds Winter Planting - You Can Grow That!

December is a great time to finish planting the seeds, perennials and bulbs that will make spring glorious in our gardens! 

You know that it's time to plant biennials, poppies, larkspur and other early spring flowers for the first bee and butterfly nectar in the neighborhood. But don't forget about the other shade garden favorites such as Columbine, also known as Granny's Bonnet.

Columbine has a reputation for thriving in shade. In the early spring they enjoy the direct sun that falls on them under trees but they will not thrive in full-sun, hot, dry conditions. Plant them where you normally water or where you have added plenty of organic material such as leaves and mulch.

A local gardening friend send me a baggie of seeds from her Columbine plants and it's time to get them going so the plants will be ready to plant  in early spring.

Cold hardy in zones 4 to 8, perennial Aquilegias have a reputation for being easy to start from seed. 

Seeds are planted on top of moist planting soil indoors at temperatures between 68-70. Some experts recommend 2 or 3 months of cold and others say it isn't needed

Columbine seedling Whiteoak Nursery
Germination is in 2 to 3 weeks inside and 30-90 days if planted outside. 

When the seedlings have at least 2 sets of leaves they are transplanted into little individual containers. Then, after they are hardened off outdoors, they are planted a foot apart.

The seedlings are delicate and should be kept out of strong sun, kept moist but not soggy. 

To plant them outdoors now, plant seeds on the surface of flats of moistened, sterile soil. Cover the flat with glass or clear plastic to protect the seeds from birds, drying wind, hard rain, etc.

There are many Columbine varieties to choose among, mostly in shades of red and blue though the AZ/NM native is pale yellow.

Aquilegia canadensis Eastern Red Columbine

Aquilegia x caerula Sunshine yellow

Aquilegia McKana's Giant - 30-inches tall

Bulk seeds Aquilegia Coerulea Mixed colors  1,000 seeds $5
Coeurulea is Rocky Mountain Columbine, Colorado's state plant

posted from Bloggeroid

13 December 2014

Late December garden

It was sunny and 64 today so the veggies garden yielded up it's salads for this week.

It all afternoon but the beds are now weeded, watered, and seeded with a few beets and more greens.

The greens seeds came from Seeds of Italy last spring so they should still be viable.

If it's this beautiful again tomorrow, I'll do a few of the tasks that I went out to do today before I was beguiled by the vegetables.

posted from Bloggeroid

10 December 2014

Sowing hollyhock seeds - biennials

Since hollyhock are biennial sow the seeds in the winter . . . now . . . in order to have flowers next summer.

This time I'm planting some in milk cartons with sterile soil.

After watering, the containers will go outside for a couple of months.

When they are thoroughly chilled...maybe late Feb. ..we will bring them into the shed to grow a few sets of leaves.

After that, they get individuals pots until time to plant out.

Last year at the Daffodil Day plant sale we sold every single one that we grew! Hopefully, the seed starting will be successful enough to offer them again next March at Daffodil Day.

posted from Bloggeroid

04 December 2014

Rock Gardening - great winter project

Steve Marak
Steve Marak’s opening comment in his talk about rock gardens was, “Rock gardening is not a pot full of rocks, even though that would live no matter what.” 

Marak recently spoke about rock gardening at the Flower, Garden and Nature Society of NW Arkansas, a club he helped found. 

Alpine gardening, which is a garden filled with plants that grow in Alpine mountain regions, includes a) crevice or deep excavation, and b)rock face or dry-stacked gardens.

A rock garden is usually filled with small and low-to-the-ground plants that bloom all at once with flowers that are large relative to the size of the plant clump.

In order to grow rock garden plants in our high-rainfall area we must try to replicate their native environment by bringing in a large quantity of mixed-sized rocks. The most efficient way to create a rock garden is with a load of scree piled on a slope.

Marak said, “Scree’s mixture of rock sizes provides sharp drainage to oxygenate the water, shelter rock garden plants’ deep and sometimes trailing roots and hold heat to protect roots from changing soil temperatures. The rocks are fundamental not just ornamental.”

The rock garden you build needs no fertilizer, no soil, and, can be completely filled with native plants. The rocks are easy to collect into a pile and builder’s sand (not play sand) is the ideal filler.  

To start a new garden, pile the scree 3 or 4 feet high with a slope on one side for drainage and to display the planting arrangement. Landscape border stones can be stacked at the high side to hold the scree pile in place.

“Native plants are what I recommend,” said Marak. “They are easy and adapted. Literally there are thousands of plants that could work.”

The plants will have to be watered to settle them in, and until they become established, plus the summers when there is a drought.  Otherwise the plants will do well without supplemental water.

“I recommend native plants for local rock gardens,” Marak said. “They are easy to find at local garden centers.”
The plants he suggests include: Poppies, dwarf conifers, succulents, cacti, sedums (King’s Crown), Bird’s Foot Violet, Goat’s Rue, Purple Prairie Clover, Thyme, small Asters, Verbena, Penstemon, perennial Candy Tuft (Iberis Sempervirens), Claytonia, moss Campion, Missouri Evening Primrose, Senecio, and daylilies.

Containers can be planted and placed along the outer border of your rock garden. Sedum plants could be planted into hypertufa containers (www.hypertufa.net).

Marak said, “Hellstrips – those areas between the sidewalk and the street where nothing else will grow – can be ideal locations for rock gardens.”

Seed starting
Salvia seeds – Fill a berry box with potting soil that drains well and wet it. When the soil is drained, place the seeds on top of the moist soil and mist them to make the stick or settle. Put the container outside for the winter, cover with plastic wrap and water from the bottom when needed.  Transplant the seedlings into individual containers when they have 4 leaves.
Penstemon seeds have a germination-inhibitor coating so cold and dry alternated with moisture is replicated outdoors over the winter.  Add perlite, vermiculite or builders sand to potting mix. Moisten, surface sow the seeds and moisten the top with a sprayer. Cover the container with clear plastic or glass. Place outside and water from the bottom as needed.

Plant ideas and seed starting
Alpines www.alpinegardensociety.net/
Canada  www.onrockgarden.com/
North America NARGS www.nargs.org
Oklahoma natives  www.oknativeplants.org/
Scottish Rock Garden Society www.srgc.net
Tulsa Cacti and Succulent Society http://hort.li/1CQ0, jwkeeth@gmail.com and 918.321.3133

Seeds and plants
Alpine Seeds www.alpine-seeds.com
Easy Wildflowers http://easywildflowers.com
High Country www.highcountrygardens.com
Jelitto Seed http://jelitto.com
Native American Seed www.seedsource.com/
Outside Pride www.outsidepride.com
Swallowtail www.swallowtailgardenseeds.com/

02 December 2014

2014 Master List of Plant Resources - Friends of the Garden - Barbara Clark

Barbara Clark has updated her thoroughly researched list of Internet sites of interest to plant lovers.

Here's the link - http://friendsofthegarden.org/internet-plant-site

Click and scroll through the list and bookmark it for one of these upcoming cold days. What a gift Barbara Clark and Friends of the Garden gives us each year.

30 November 2014

Great day in the garden

It's that sunny warm day before a hard freeze and we are using every minute.

Watering the cold hardy plants like these gardenias. I had to remind myself that it is best to mulch after the ground is frozen not when it is still warm like it is now.

While weeding around the emerging larkspur and and pulling weeds it seemed like a good idea to plant hollyhock seeds. They are biennial so if we plant the seeds now and they emerge during warm spells, they will bloom summer 2015.

Also, I'm harvesting zinnia seeds and planting them around for next summer.

In a bed toward the back of our property where native plants thrive and multiply I worked removing hundreds of tiny plant seedlings and suckers that would choke out the rest of my shrubs, trees and flowers up there.

Jon is working on pruning the dead and low hanging branches of the Loblolly pine trees - with intermittent chain saw adjustments - and removing a row of native privet shrubs that seemed like a good idea at the time but have become a nuisance due to their native need to replant themselves everywhere by the hundreds.

Later when my shoulders and arms yell Stop! I'll move into the garden shed to sow several containers of seeds that will sit outside all winter, freezing and thawing, which will help with germination.
posted from Bloggeroid

29 November 2014

Late Nov salad in zone 7

We just arrived home from our thanksgiving trip and it was 75 degrees and sunny.

The salad greens were ready to be watered and picked so I did both.

Tonight's welcome-home salad is 4 lettuce varieties, bloody dock, parsley, basil, mache, kale, arugula, and garlic, with a simple, home made vinegar and oil dressing.
posted from Bloggeroid

23 November 2014

Seeds to plant now

Poppy seeds ready to plant in November
You can provide cold stratification for seeds of annual flowers by putting them in the freezer or the refrigerator but I prefer to plant them Thanksgiving week so Mother Nature does the work for me.

This is the time to plant Poppy seeds, Larkspur, wildflowers, swamp milkweed and many others. They seem to thrive with cold, moist, freeze and thaw stratification.

The photo is our bag of the poppy seeds we collected and cleaned. This afternoon we are going to fill that gallon bag with soil-less potting soil that has been mixed with additional peat moss.

Then, we are going to disturb the ground in various places on our 2 acres, sprinkle the mix on the disturbed soil and pat it down to discourage birds and squirrels. The peat, perlite and pressing the seeds in seems to really help reduce the eating.

For more see http://www.hamiltonnativeoutpost.com/stratification.html

Many many perennial seeds need cold stratification to germinate their thick, hard seedcoat.
Check out this site for more tips - http://www.alchemy-works.com/fall_planting.html

For specific seeds, Tom Clothier has the best site I've ever found - click over to http://tomclothier.hort.net/page02.html

Here are a few links that discuss what to plant now.






And, for all plants, methods, theories and support for winter sown seeds here is the Mother Load of information, community and encouragement http://www.wintersown.org/wseo1/Seed_Lists.html

Let me know what you winter sow. I'll start my milk carton sowing after Thanksgiving.

posted from Bloggeroid

18 November 2014

Cherokee Ethnobotany - Pat Gwin speaking in Muskogee

Pat Gwin speaking“Cherokee Ethnobiology: Cherokee Native Agricultural Practices and Plants”
November 20, 9:30 am to 11 Muskogee Garden Club
Kiwanis Senior Center 119 Spaulding AV Muskogee
Information: Susan Asquith 918.682.3688

Cherokee plants and their role in the life of native Cherokee sustainable agricultural practices is a topic that Pat Gwin has spoken on for a decade at various conferences, native plant walks and events. Nove 20 he will share that wisdom at Muskogee Garden Club’s monthly meeting.

“Ethnobotany is strictly about the native plants and Ethnobiology includes animals,” said Gwin. “My talk will be 95% about plants. Part One of the talk is gardening with heirlooms and Part Two is about ethnoforestry which is usually the more popular part of the talk.”

Gwin is the director of the Cherokee Nation Seed Bank and Native Plant Center at Cherokee Nation Natural Resources in Tahlequah where he helps coordinate the heirloom seed exchange program. He also helps plant and oversee the Don Guy Memorial Garden on the grounds of the Cherokee Nation complex where they grow heirloom plants in a display garden.

“One thing that people don’t think about is the fact that in the past gardening was done to ensure survival in the winter months and today most gardeners grow summertime produce,” Gwin said.

Cherokee Ethnobotany refers to the many roles plants have played in traditional Cherokee society as food, shelter, weapons and medicine.  One purpose of the Natural Resources Department is to increase and preserve environmental knowledge of Cherokee wild herbs, vegetables, trees and fruit.

Gwin pointed out that most people don’t realize the chemical-free nature of livingwith native plants, utilizing them for food and growing them for medicine.

“Western medicine has its roots in medicinal plants,” said Gwin.”Traditional plants played a role in that.”

A link at the Cherokee Nation website (http://hort.li/1C4n) lists plants and animals with links to articles about them. For example, Gray Squirrels are described as an historically important food source, with skins used for hats and pouches.

The Cherokee Natural Resources Board donated five copies of the English version and five copies of the Cherokee language version of their recent book to be given away as doorprizes at the meeting.

Here are some examples from the Cherokee Nation’s 2014 book, “Wild Plants of the Cherokee Nation” –

Sweet Everlasting, Gosdudv or Pseudognaphalium obstifolium is a member of the Aster family. The Cherokee name means ash-like and is named that because the flowers and stems look ashy. Grows 1-2 feet tall in disturbed, open areas. A tea is made of the aerial plant parts and drunk to prevent or cure colds and respiratory ailments.

Rattlesnake Master, Selugwoy, Eryngium yuccifolium, Corn Leaves Weed, Button Snakeroot is a member of the Apiaceae or Parsley plant family. It is known by Cherokees as a warrior’s plant as well as a survival kit. The button of the root is carried as protection, consumed for energy, snakebite remedy and cancer inhibitor.

It is a perennial plant that matures at 3 feet tall with white flowers. Rattlesnake Master thrives in prairies, wooded areas and along roadsides but has become rare due to urban clearing and spraying.

The Cherokee Nation’s heirloom native seedbank (http://hort.li/1C4k) will open for requests in Feb. 201, and those who attend today will find out how to obtain seeds for their gardens. The number of seed packets distributed each year has ranged from one to five thousand, depending on the weather and growing conditions.

The seeds were collected over a 20-year period from traditional Cherokee areas, grown locally, saved and grown again to ensure a good supply of seeds that are direct descendants of traditional crops. They began giving away seeds in 2007.

“This was a bumper crop year for the seedbank,” said Gwin. “We’ll have plenty to share.”

You can watch the October, 2013, Oklahoma Gardening segment on the Cherokee Nation’s Don Guy Memorial Garden at http://hort.li/1BT3

14 November 2014

Cold Frames made of re-purposed home windows

When we had to have our house's windows replaced with new ones last year, I asked that all the old windows be left with us so they could be re-purposed into mini cold frames.

We put them up the day before these 20-degree temperatures arrived and I wanted to give them a few days/nights trial run to see how well they did. Success!

Jon drilled little holes in the frames and ran wire through the holes to make a secure tie that even these recent, awful winds have not messed with.

The little windows at the ends blew down one night but the plants didn't suffer any damage.

We've watered once just by slipping the hose in with a water flow diffuser/bubbler attached so it would flow down into the soil.

The other greens in the garden? Mixed results. The Kale has freezer burn, the Mache and Arugula are doing fine.

Dinosour kale without protection 

Arugula - unfazed by freezing temperatures and blooming!

Mache - unprotected and undisturbed by the freeze

10 November 2014

Begonia rhizomes make more plants You Can Grow That!

Soak entire pot contents
Begonias are mostly tender perennials in zone 7 with only a few exceptions. They are one example of plants that we keep from year to year, dividing in the fall, growing in the shed over the winter and putting back outside in the spring.

There are different types of begonias according to Gary Turner, including cane, shrub, thick stem semperflorens, rhizomatous, tuberous, trailing/scandent. Cane-types can be rooted in water.

Begonia rhyzome growing over pot
Most have shallow roots and prefer shallow containers where they can trail out. We use bagged soil-less potting soil, remixed with extra perlite for ours.

A few of ours are so crowded that their rhizomes are crawling over the sides of their containers. We keep ours outside in flower beds, under trees, all summer in pots and our summers are 100 and above with pretty high humidity.

Gently separate rhyzome clumps
At the link above, Turner says: "The planting medium mix should be slightly acid, containing loose, well-drained ingredients such as Perlite, Vermiculite and leaf mold (oak leaf, Orchid Bark). Begonias in general prefer to be root or pot bound. The type of pot does not matter, but for tall plants it is wise to use a heavy pot that will help prevent the plant from tipping over.

When repotting, place the plant as low in the new pot as possible to bury more stem buds and encourage more canes and roots to grow.
Separated begonia rhyzomes

Start the dividing process by letting the container dry out so you can slip it all out in one piece. Then, soak the contents to soften it all to make it easy to remove loose soil and get your fingers between the rhizomes to gently pull them apart.

Each rhyzome will then go into its own container. Or, you can cut the rhyzomes into pieces and plant them as illustrated on the right which we are going to try.

Our potting shed is filling up with wonderful projects like this that keep our fingers in the soil all winter long!

Turner, "Optimum temperatures for Cane Type begonias
range from 55 degrees at night to about 80 degrees in the day. Some survive short bouts of freezing weather, and others can withstand 100 degree summers. Higher humidity through misting helps them grow better in higher temperatures."

Carol Notaras and other members of the San Francisco Begonia Society use a basic blend of: • 1/3 Potting Soil,  1/3 Perlite• 1/3 Orchid Bark (small or micro-chip size)
Joan Coulat of the Sacramento Begonia Society recommends this special soil mixture recipe includes the following: • 2 bags of 2 cubic feet Professional Potting Soil• 2 bags of 2 cubic feet Master Nursery Paydirt with Soil NʼRich• 3 - 1/2 gallons of Perlite (course) • 2 - 1 gallons of Vermiculite (course) ● 1 - 1/2 cup of Blood Meal• 1 - 1/2 cup SuperPhosphate ● 1 - cup of Bone Meal• 1 C Agricultural Lime ● 1 - 1/2 cup of Ironite

07 November 2014

November things to do in the garden

Collect seeds from mature annual flower heads
November is not always a gardening month but this year it is. However, when night temperatures drop below 50-degrees F, tropical perennials, succulents and houseplants should be prepared for bringing indoors.

Start by checking the containers and soil for insects. Soak the planted pots in a tub of lukewarm water for 15 minutes to force the insects to leave. If there are burrowed insects in the pot such as snails or earthworms, repot the plant to remove them before bringing them inside.

If the plant became large and leggy over the summer, prune back the roots and the top before repotting in fresh soil.

Gradually help the plants get used to the low light in a home by putting them in shade for more and more hours a day before bringing them in. The best windowsill light is about half the light plants get outdoors.

Many plants you enjoyed this summer can have a second life if you take cuttings that you can replant next spring. We have had success with all succulents, begonias, petunias, Purple Heart, geranium, coleus, wire vine, impatiens, sweet potato vine, rosemary, pineapple sage, lavender, mint, etc.
Take 5-inch cuttings that end where a leaf grows. Remove almost all of the leaves below the top few. Put sterile potting soil mixed with perlite in a clean container with drain holes. Dampen the soil and let it drain.

Put holes into the soil with a pencil and carefully place one cutting in each hole. Water the soil and let it drain again. Check the cuttings every few days to make sure they are damp not wet or dry. Check for roots after 2 or 3 weeks. When the roots are well established put each rooted cutting into its own container of soil and put into bright light to grow out.

Herb plants such as parsley, thyme, oregano and chives can be dug up, potted and kept in a sunny spot for fresh herbs to use in the kitchen over the winter.

Live Christmas trees are fun to buy and have in the house before planting outside. This is the time to prepare the planting spot by deciding where you’ll want the tree to grow to its full, mature height, and digging the hole before cold weather sets in.

Dig and store summer flowering bulbs such as gladiolas, dahlias, caladiums, Elephant Ears and tuberous begonias. The mesh bags that onions come in are ideal for drying cleaned bulbs and tubers. 

When they are dry enough to store in a frost-free location, put them in sand, peat moss or sawdust where they will remain dry.

Check them every few weeks, looking for disease or shriveling. Cut off any diseased spots and plunge shriveling tubers into water to plump them. Then, put them back into storage after the surface dries.

Many of these plants can also be brought indoors and treated as houseplants over the winter. Elephant Ears and Cordylines in large containers make a dramatic impact during the otherwise dull months for gardeners.

There are plenty of sunny days remaining and they are ideal for pulling weeds so they do not overwinter and return as giants next spring. Insect eggs are hiding in the flower and vegetable beds and it is a good idea to clear all the dead leaves and stems, eliminating insects’ winter homes.

Lilies and daylilies can be divided, moved and replanted now. Fall is also a good time to start a compost pile where sticks, leaves and dead plant material is piled and left to make soil amendment over the winter.

There is still time to plant spring blooming bulbs, pansies and perennials on sale at garden centers.

04 November 2014

Wildflower Seeds - new source this year Pine Ridge Gardens

Barbara's Buttons, Marshallia caespitosa 
Mary Ann King, owner of Pine Ridge Gardens in northwest Arkansas has always been a reliable source for native plants grown at her nursery.

Yesterday King announced that they have collected seeds from their plants and the surrounding area and are making them available to native plant lovers. Click over to see the entire listing at

Other useful links -
Arkansas Native Plant Society http://anps.org/
Ozark Chapter Arkansas Native Plant Society http://anps.org/ozark-chapter/
Native Plants for Birds in NW Arkansas http://www.nwarkaudubon.org/native-plants-for-birds-in-northwest-arkansas.html

Seeds we have to Spare

Our seed mostly comes from the nursery or the farm so most of our seed is only available in small quantities.  Sometimes seed may hybridize naturally so  it may not turn out exactly like its parent plant.  And since these are seeds, please keep in mind that there can be color variations.  
TO ORDER:  Print page, check or circle items desired, and mail to Pine Ridge Gardens,   P O Box 200, London, AR 72847 with check, money order or credit card information.  
Name, mailing address, Credit card number (if using), expiration date and Security code.
Shipping charges as follows:  1 to 50  packets   $5.00                    51 to 100 packets $10.00    No charge for seed sent with plant, book or t-shirt order.
You may also email page to me or call with your order.  479-293-4359 or office@pineridgegardens.com

Latin NameCommon NamePacket SizePrice# of
Allium cernuumNadding onion50 seeds3.00

Allium stellatumGlade onion50 seeds3.00

Andropogon gerardiiBig Blue Stem50 seeds3.00

Andropogon glomeratusBush Bluestem50 seeds3.00

Andropogon ternariusSplit beard bluestem50 seeds3.00

Asclepias incarnataRose milkweed25 seeds3.00

Asclepias syriacaCommon milkweed25 seeds3.00
Asclepias tuberosaOrange milkweed25 seeds3.00
Asclepias verticillataHorsetail milkweed25 seeds3.00
Astragalus canadensisCanadian Milkbetch20 seeeds3.00

Berlandiera texanaGreen eyes50 seeds3.00

Blephelia hirsutaHairy wood mint50 seeds3.00

Callirhoe bushiiBush's poppy mallow50 seeds3.00

Centaurea americanaBasketflower20 seeds3.00

Coreopsis tripterisTall tickseed50 seeds3.00

Diospyros  virginianaPersimmon10 seeds3.00
Echinacea pallidaPale Purple Coneflower50 seeds3.00

Echinacea purpureaPurple coneflower50 seeds 3.00

Echinacea tennessensisTennesee coneflower50 seeds3.00

Eryngium yuccifoliumRattlesnake master50 seeds3.00

Eupatorium maculatumSweet Joe Pye50 seeds3.00

Eupatorium serotinumLate Joe Pye50 seeds3.00
Helianthus mollisAshy sunflower50 seeds3.00

Helianthus silphoidesRosinweed sunflower50 seeds3.00

Hypericum hypercoides
v. hypercoides
St. Andrews cross20 seeds3.00

Hypericum prolificumShrubby St. John's Wort20 seeds3.00

Manfreda virginicaArkansas agave20 Seeds3.00

Marshallia caespitosaBarbara's Buttons50 seeds3.00

Penstemon arkansanaArkansas beardtongue 50 seeds

Penstemon digitalisBeardtongue50 seeds3.00

Penstemon murrayanousBig red penstemon10 seeds3.00

Penstemon teniusGulf coast penstemon50 seeds3.00

Phystostegia angustifoliaFalse dragonhead20 seeds3.00

Pityopsis gramnifoliaSilkgrass50 seeds3.00

Ratibida pinnataGrey headed conflower50 seeds3.00

Rudbeckia grandifloraLarge flowered
black-eyed susan
50 seeds3.00

Rudbeckia missouriensisMissouri blackeyed susan50 seeds3.00

Silene regiaRoyal catchfly50 seeds3.00

Silene stellataStarry campion50 seeds3.00

Silphium speciosumWholeleaf rosinweed25 seeds3.00

Sium suaveWater parsnip20 seeds3.00

Sorgastrum elliottiiSlender Indian Grass50 Seeds3.00

Sorgastrum nutansIndian grass50 seeds3.00

 Tridens flavus v. flavusPurpletop 50 seeds3.00


Additional Info:
Most wildflower seed will need 3-8 weeks cold stratification.  Some seed is so tiny that the seed appears as dust.  These tiny seed should be sprinkled on top of the soil and preferably bottom watered to avoid the seed being washed to the sides or edges of the tray.